Having looked out over Waipio Valley and the tour bussed we decided against hiking down, instead we headed for the northern end of the Kohala Reserve. We spent the night in Waimea, woke early and arrived at the trailhead very early. As the sky started to lighten we began our descent into the beautiful valley.
With the sun not peaking over the horizon it was still a little bit brisk so we decided to spend some time exploring the valley. There were a bunch of cool little trails through the jungle-like vegetation. It appears that plenty of people spend time down in this valley: lots of fire pits and other fun signs of human presence.
After our explorations, we returned to the beach to watch the sun come up over the water. We were the only people on the beach for the beautiful sunrise.
Forrest even had a bit of fun on the way back up the hill:
During our explorations of the Big Island we stopped at a beach for lunch and to enjoy the sunshine. The beach was packed but we did meet a local who suggested that we check out a green sand beach south of Ocean View. He warned us that the road required pretty good ground clearance and as long as we just went to the green sand beach that we wouldn’t need 4-wheel drive.
We made a quick stop at the grocery store for a six-pack and also picked up some food for dinner (garlic mahi mahi and a BBQ mix plate). The unmarked road to the ocean lead us almost six miles south down a bad gravel road (a pickup would handle the road just fine).
Arriving at the ocean, we had the beach all to ourselves. The small beach had green sand and pounding surf. There was rain visible on the horizon but where we were the sun was shining. A rainbow was visible over an isolated area of salt-and-pepper sand with one palm tree.
We decided to spend the night on the beach and do some more exploring of the lava and of the private beach the next morning.
We clamored all over the lava flows following a jeep trail. Along the way, we found cool lava formations and some deep cracks in the lava. The sunrise was absolutely beautiful and we still had the whole beach to ourselves before trekking back to the car and making our way back up the gravel to the highway.
At Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, we stopped off at the visitors center to get a feel for what is in the park. Unfortunately due to increased volcanic activity most of the Crater Rim Drive has been closed since 2008 along with the trails in the Halemaʻumaʻu crater. We watched the videos in the theater and began to get excited about seeing lava up close and personal (more on this coming soon).
Leaving the Visitors Center we headed for Jaggar Museum. Along the way, we stopped off to see the steam vents and the overlook in the crater. At the museum, the plume from Kilauea was slightly visible through the mist. Since the weather was rather damp, we opted to check out Chain of Craters Road before picking a hike for the day. Along the way, we stopped to walk through the lava tube and drive Hilina Pali Road.
At the end of Chain of Craters Road, we walked out to where the lava had flowed across the road in 2003. It was really impressive to see the volume of new rock that so easily disrupted our piddly road system. From the sea plain, it was also really impressive to look inland and see the older lava flows coming off the hills.
After our walk on the lava, we headed mauka (“towards the mountains”) to find ourselves a delicious plate lunch for dinner.
After leaving Volcanoes National Park, we headed for the Hawaii County lava viewing area to get a better sense of where the lava was flowing and how we could see it. We’d learned at Jaggar Museum in the park that the lava was flowing and entering the ocean near the park boundary. The official word was that you had to join a guide service to go out on the lava.
At the viewing area, we spoke with the attendant who just happened to be a resident of the community at the end of the road. He told us that the county had hired people like him to tell us not to go, that we’d be trespassing on private property, and that the county had condemned all the recent flows and closed them to the public. The general word around the viewing area was that “those who are going to go, go. Otherwise, hire a guide.”
With the local guides charging about $100 (or more) to walk the two plus miles over the lava, we decided to go for it on our own. We headed out just after dawn by following a trail near the Kalapana Village Cafe towards the water. Upon reaching the ocean, we made a right and followed the coast towards a group of trees on a raised chunk of rock. After scrambling up onto the rock, we followed a path through the trees and along the water. Continuing further to the west, we left the vegetation just as the plume from the ocean entry was in sight.
Watching the lava enter the ocean and actually extend the land was particularly facinating to me. The ocean entry wasn’t the only show, however, there was a good sized lava flow to see (and play with). Seeing and hearing lava was an absolutely astounding experience. Forrest had been sure to grab a stick so he could play with the molten rock. There was no one else on the ground at the flow so we had everything all to ourselves.
After playing with the lava for a bit, we headed closer to the ocean entry for a better view.
Forrest also decided to boss the lava around a little bit:
We covered somewhere around four and a half miles on the lava. Going out and back plus our time at the flow took us somewhere in the ballpark of four and a half hours.
After our hike to the lava, we were both pretty tired so we spent most of the day relaxing in the sunshine. At four, Forrest asked me if I’d be willing to hike back out to see the lava by night. I was a bit hesitant at first but agreed—I’m definitely glad I did!
There was considerably more traffic at the flows in the evening with a couple more groups of independent hikers there and at least two tour groups. Being out at dusk was totally worth it though—just amazing to see the lava glow. I also really liked seeing how much further the lava had made it towards the ocean since we’d left in the morning.
After we hiked back to the car we were famished so we headed into Pahoa and pigged out on pizza. Nothing ever tastes so good as a good post hike meal!
If you go, be aware that the lava will eat your shoes. Forrest bought these when we left Missoula so had less than a month of wear on them and the lava left them looking like this:
We went to Hawaii and Oahu and stayed for two and a half weeks for less than $2,300. Hawaii has a reputation for being very expensive, some of which is true and some of which is not true. Food at resorts was very expensive (we stayed far away!) and grocery store items were much more than on the mainland. Eating at local restaurants and food trucks seemed more than reasonable to us—we found that unless we were super hungry that a “regular” plate lunch would feed the two of us pretty comfortably. ($7-$11).
Our vacation lasted 18 days and exclusive of airfare (a set cost regardless of how long you’re on the islands), we spent $61/day for the two of us. Not too shabby! As with any vacation, your emphasis might be in other areas. Although we had places to stay on Oahu, it did not appear that camping (particularly on the North Shore) would be difficult with standard stealth camping precautions. Here’s our budget breakdown:
Two round-trip tickets from Phoenix to Honolulu- $861
Two round-trip tickets from Honolulu to Hilo- $338
One tank of gas in cousin’s car: $50
Gas for friend’s car: $20
Rental car on Big Island: $346
Gas on Big Island: $110
Safeway (food to cook for a week, 6-pack of beer): $132
Walmart (bagels, salami, cheese, crackers): $35
Eating out (mostly plate lunches, two shaved ice cones, two 6-packs): $280